Now that we’ve got the basics out of the way, let’s break into the details a little further so you can properly prep your wood project for stain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s dive in!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Quick Navigation: How To Use Wood Conditioner<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n- What Is a Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner?<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Using Water As A Wood Conditioner<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Using Water-Based Wood Conditioners<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Using Oil-Based Wood Conditioners<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- How To Use Wood Conditioners Before Staining<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Results From Not Using Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Benefits Of Using A Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Drawbacks Of Using A Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Other FAQs About Using Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Final Thoughts<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What Is A Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nA wood conditioner is a liquid that woodworkers apply to raw wood before staining, and it prepares the wood by opening the pores of the wood. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using a wood conditioner before staining helps the wood avoid blotchiness and uneven absorption of the stain, giving the wood a more even overall color and appearance.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThere are several forms of conditioners used in different applications. These include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Plain, old water<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Water-based wood conditioners<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Oil-based wood conditioners<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Water As A Wood Conditioner<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nInstead of using a commercial product, some woodworkers prefer to condition the wood with distilled water, especially with softer woods. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
As with other conditioners, but without any additives, the water opens the wood’s pores for more even absorption of the stain. The process is known as “popping the grain”. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen using water, the wood must dry completely before the stain is applied, and this could take several hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Water-Based Wood Conditioners<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re working with a water-based stain, it is better to use a water-based wood conditioner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Water-based conditioners are less expensive than oil-based ones, less harmful to the environment, and are suitable for most wood types and laminates.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Oil-Based Wood Conditioners<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nOil-based wood conditioners are more expensive but are more durable and suitable for hardwood floors, decking, other high-traffic areas, and where the wood is more exposed to direct sun and harsh weather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is best to use an oil-based conditioner with an oil-based stain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
My favorite oil-based wood conditioner is MinWax’s Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner found at Amazon<\/a>. It makes a HUGE difference in the stain’s ability to absorb into the wood.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nPlus, a little bit of it goes a long way. Only half of a 1\/2 pint container let me condition an entire nightstand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/diywithchristine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/How-to-clean-wood-after-sanding-before-staining-or-painting-using-wood-conditioner-vs-no-wood-conditioner-when-staining-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How To Use Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nStaining the wood as evenly as possible requires first the preparation of the surface of the wood, followed by sanding and cleaning, and then the proper application of the conditioner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Preparing<\/strong> the surface of the wood removes loose fibers, smooths knots and other imperfections in the wood, and cleans it of dirt, grease, and other impurities. Before sanding, it is also necessary to fill in holes, scratches, and cracks with a color-matched wood filler.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n- Sanding<\/strong> with 100-grit sandpaper followed by a second and even third sanding with 200-grit sandpaper is recommended. After this, the next step is to give the wood a really good clean with a slightly damp cloth to remove all the loose material and sawdust that the sanding has created.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/diywithchristine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/How-to-clean-wood-after-sanding-before-staining-or-painting-sanding-wood-before-staining-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Applying the wood conditioner<\/strong> is simple because it\u2019s a thin, watery liquid. Apply a thin coat evenly, using a soft cloth or a brush. Ensure that you go with the grain to have uniform coverage and that the wood conditioner has filled all the pores in the wood. Then, after a few minutes to let the conditioner soak in, wipe any excess off the surface.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/diywithchristine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/How-to-clean-wood-after-sanding-before-staining-or-painting-wipe-away-with-mineral-spirits-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Allowing the wood conditioner to dry correctly <\/strong>is essential, so follow the manufacturer\u2019s instructions on the container. Timing varies depending on the type of conditioner, and it\u2019s as easy to leave it too long as it is not to let it dry sufficiently. Typically, the period for the conditioner to dry is between fifteen minutes and two hours. If you leave it longer<\/a> than that, the conditioner may become less effective, and you may even get a worse result than not using one at all.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n- After applying the wood conditioner, re-sanding the surface<\/strong> with fine 320-grit sandpaper is recommended, particularly with a water-based wood conditioner. It will have caused the pores to open and the surface to become slightly rough. This final sanding will allow the stain, when you apply it, to soak more evenly into the surface you are treating.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
By allowing the wood to absorb the stain more efficiently, the application of wood conditioner will result in a slightly lighter color once you have applied the first coat of the stain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you prefer a darker stain, you will need to apply further coats until you are satisfied with the color. A light sanding between coats will result in a perfect finish.<\/p>\n\n\n
\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/diywithchristine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/do-i-need-to-use-wood-conditioner-before-staining-benefits-of-wood-conditioner-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Results From Not Using Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nBecause wood is a natural product, unlike a factory-produced one, it has imperfections and blemishes, making each piece unique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some sections of the wood are more porous, and there are differences in density, knots, cracks in the surface, and other flaws. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the wood is not correctly conditioned, these irregularities will result in a blotchy, uneven stain absorption. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/diywithchristine.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/how-to-darken-stain-sand-thoroughly-1024x768.jpg\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSoftwoods, such as pine, cedar, spruce, and certain hardwoods like maple, are porous. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nAs a result, both types of wood will get that blotchy, unprofessional stain if they are not treated beforehand with a suitable wood conditioner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here is a fantastic video that shows you the difference between using a wood conditioner and not using it.<\/p>\n\n\n![\"YouTube](\"https:\/\/i.ytimg.com\/vi\/6u9LlJMaJe8\/maxresdefault.jpg\")
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What Is A Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nA wood conditioner is a liquid that woodworkers apply to raw wood before staining, and it prepares the wood by opening the pores of the wood. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using a wood conditioner before staining helps the wood avoid blotchiness and uneven absorption of the stain, giving the wood a more even overall color and appearance.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nThere are several forms of conditioners used in different applications. These include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Plain, old water<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Water-based wood conditioners<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Oil-based wood conditioners<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Water As A Wood Conditioner<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nInstead of using a commercial product, some woodworkers prefer to condition the wood with distilled water, especially with softer woods. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
As with other conditioners, but without any additives, the water opens the wood’s pores for more even absorption of the stain. The process is known as “popping the grain”. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen using water, the wood must dry completely before the stain is applied, and this could take several hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Water-Based Wood Conditioners<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re working with a water-based stain, it is better to use a water-based wood conditioner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Water-based conditioners are less expensive than oil-based ones, less harmful to the environment, and are suitable for most wood types and laminates.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Oil-Based Wood Conditioners<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nOil-based wood conditioners are more expensive but are more durable and suitable for hardwood floors, decking, other high-traffic areas, and where the wood is more exposed to direct sun and harsh weather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is best to use an oil-based conditioner with an oil-based stain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
My favorite oil-based wood conditioner is MinWax’s Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner found at Amazon<\/a>. It makes a HUGE difference in the stain’s ability to absorb into the wood.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nPlus, a little bit of it goes a long way. Only half of a 1\/2 pint container let me condition an entire nightstand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How To Use Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nStaining the wood as evenly as possible requires first the preparation of the surface of the wood, followed by sanding and cleaning, and then the proper application of the conditioner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Preparing<\/strong> the surface of the wood removes loose fibers, smooths knots and other imperfections in the wood, and cleans it of dirt, grease, and other impurities. Before sanding, it is also necessary to fill in holes, scratches, and cracks with a color-matched wood filler.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n- Sanding<\/strong> with 100-grit sandpaper followed by a second and even third sanding with 200-grit sandpaper is recommended. After this, the next step is to give the wood a really good clean with a slightly damp cloth to remove all the loose material and sawdust that the sanding has created.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Applying the wood conditioner<\/strong> is simple because it\u2019s a thin, watery liquid. Apply a thin coat evenly, using a soft cloth or a brush. Ensure that you go with the grain to have uniform coverage and that the wood conditioner has filled all the pores in the wood. Then, after a few minutes to let the conditioner soak in, wipe any excess off the surface.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Allowing the wood conditioner to dry correctly <\/strong>is essential, so follow the manufacturer\u2019s instructions on the container. Timing varies depending on the type of conditioner, and it\u2019s as easy to leave it too long as it is not to let it dry sufficiently. Typically, the period for the conditioner to dry is between fifteen minutes and two hours. If you leave it longer<\/a> than that, the conditioner may become less effective, and you may even get a worse result than not using one at all.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n- After applying the wood conditioner, re-sanding the surface<\/strong> with fine 320-grit sandpaper is recommended, particularly with a water-based wood conditioner. It will have caused the pores to open and the surface to become slightly rough. This final sanding will allow the stain, when you apply it, to soak more evenly into the surface you are treating.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
By allowing the wood to absorb the stain more efficiently, the application of wood conditioner will result in a slightly lighter color once you have applied the first coat of the stain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you prefer a darker stain, you will need to apply further coats until you are satisfied with the color. A light sanding between coats will result in a perfect finish.<\/p>\n\n\n
\n<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Results From Not Using Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nBecause wood is a natural product, unlike a factory-produced one, it has imperfections and blemishes, making each piece unique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some sections of the wood are more porous, and there are differences in density, knots, cracks in the surface, and other flaws. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the wood is not correctly conditioned, these irregularities will result in a blotchy, uneven stain absorption. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSoftwoods, such as pine, cedar, spruce, and certain hardwoods like maple, are porous. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nAs a result, both types of wood will get that blotchy, unprofessional stain if they are not treated beforehand with a suitable wood conditioner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here is a fantastic video that shows you the difference between using a wood conditioner and not using it.<\/p>\n\n\n
There are several forms of conditioners used in different applications. These include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Plain, old water<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Water-based wood conditioners<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Oil-based wood conditioners<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Water As A Wood Conditioner<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Instead of using a commercial product, some woodworkers prefer to condition the wood with distilled water, especially with softer woods. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
As with other conditioners, but without any additives, the water opens the wood’s pores for more even absorption of the stain. The process is known as “popping the grain”. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
When using water, the wood must dry completely before the stain is applied, and this could take several hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Water-Based Wood Conditioners<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019re working with a water-based stain, it is better to use a water-based wood conditioner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Water-based conditioners are less expensive than oil-based ones, less harmful to the environment, and are suitable for most wood types and laminates.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Oil-Based Wood Conditioners<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Oil-based wood conditioners are more expensive but are more durable and suitable for hardwood floors, decking, other high-traffic areas, and where the wood is more exposed to direct sun and harsh weather. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is best to use an oil-based conditioner with an oil-based stain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
My favorite oil-based wood conditioner is MinWax’s Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner found at Amazon<\/a>. It makes a HUGE difference in the stain’s ability to absorb into the wood.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Plus, a little bit of it goes a long way. Only half of a 1\/2 pint container let me condition an entire nightstand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How To Use Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Staining the wood as evenly as possible requires first the preparation of the surface of the wood, followed by sanding and cleaning, and then the proper application of the conditioner. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Preparing<\/strong> the surface of the wood removes loose fibers, smooths knots and other imperfections in the wood, and cleans it of dirt, grease, and other impurities. Before sanding, it is also necessary to fill in holes, scratches, and cracks with a color-matched wood filler.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Sanding<\/strong> with 100-grit sandpaper followed by a second and even third sanding with 200-grit sandpaper is recommended. After this, the next step is to give the wood a really good clean with a slightly damp cloth to remove all the loose material and sawdust that the sanding has created.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Applying the wood conditioner<\/strong> is simple because it\u2019s a thin, watery liquid. Apply a thin coat evenly, using a soft cloth or a brush. Ensure that you go with the grain to have uniform coverage and that the wood conditioner has filled all the pores in the wood. Then, after a few minutes to let the conditioner soak in, wipe any excess off the surface.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Allowing the wood conditioner to dry correctly <\/strong>is essential, so follow the manufacturer\u2019s instructions on the container. Timing varies depending on the type of conditioner, and it\u2019s as easy to leave it too long as it is not to let it dry sufficiently. Typically, the period for the conditioner to dry is between fifteen minutes and two hours. If you leave it longer<\/a> than that, the conditioner may become less effective, and you may even get a worse result than not using one at all.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- After applying the wood conditioner, re-sanding the surface<\/strong> with fine 320-grit sandpaper is recommended, particularly with a water-based wood conditioner. It will have caused the pores to open and the surface to become slightly rough. This final sanding will allow the stain, when you apply it, to soak more evenly into the surface you are treating.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
By allowing the wood to absorb the stain more efficiently, the application of wood conditioner will result in a slightly lighter color once you have applied the first coat of the stain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you prefer a darker stain, you will need to apply further coats until you are satisfied with the color. A light sanding between coats will result in a perfect finish.<\/p>\n\n\n
\n<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Results From Not Using Wood Conditioner Before Staining<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Because wood is a natural product, unlike a factory-produced one, it has imperfections and blemishes, making each piece unique. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some sections of the wood are more porous, and there are differences in density, knots, cracks in the surface, and other flaws. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
If the wood is not correctly conditioned, these irregularities will result in a blotchy, uneven stain absorption. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSoftwoods, such as pine, cedar, spruce, and certain hardwoods like maple, are porous. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
As a result, both types of wood will get that blotchy, unprofessional stain if they are not treated beforehand with a suitable wood conditioner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here is a fantastic video that shows you the difference between using a wood conditioner and not using it.<\/p>\n\n\n
- After applying the wood conditioner, re-sanding the surface<\/strong> with fine 320-grit sandpaper is recommended, particularly with a water-based wood conditioner. It will have caused the pores to open and the surface to become slightly rough. This final sanding will allow the stain, when you apply it, to soak more evenly into the surface you are treating.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Allowing the wood conditioner to dry correctly <\/strong>is essential, so follow the manufacturer\u2019s instructions on the container. Timing varies depending on the type of conditioner, and it\u2019s as easy to leave it too long as it is not to let it dry sufficiently. Typically, the period for the conditioner to dry is between fifteen minutes and two hours. If you leave it longer<\/a> than that, the conditioner may become less effective, and you may even get a worse result than not using one at all.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Applying the wood conditioner<\/strong> is simple because it\u2019s a thin, watery liquid. Apply a thin coat evenly, using a soft cloth or a brush. Ensure that you go with the grain to have uniform coverage and that the wood conditioner has filled all the pores in the wood. Then, after a few minutes to let the conditioner soak in, wipe any excess off the surface.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Sanding<\/strong> with 100-grit sandpaper followed by a second and even third sanding with 200-grit sandpaper is recommended. After this, the next step is to give the wood a really good clean with a slightly damp cloth to remove all the loose material and sawdust that the sanding has created.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Preparing<\/strong> the surface of the wood removes loose fibers, smooths knots and other imperfections in the wood, and cleans it of dirt, grease, and other impurities. Before sanding, it is also necessary to fill in holes, scratches, and cracks with a color-matched wood filler.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n